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In Meade's opinion, the north begins where grain spirit and beer replace wine as the staple drink because the climate is hostile to vines. Beginning in French Flanders he heads north trying to define northerness, trying to locate its essential qualities. He fails. But along the way he takes in the gothic and the grotesque, the vitality of Hamburg and its monument to the Unknown Pimp, the creepiness of German woods, Polish fortresses, the Brezhnev Plays Vegas style of late Soviet architecture, Tallinn's beauty, Finland's uterine nostalgia. Many scenes in bars, many herrings eaten